Ok, sorry we haven't been in touch earlier. It got a little hectic towards the end of the trip! After we left you last time we were able to have a lovely sleep (theoretically)! Gordo was up at 7:15 or something stupid. In trying to keep quiet as to not wake Toot, more noise is always made. So even though we were both awake early we still didn't have to leave the hotel until 11:30am. So after a little reading and the mega repack again we were out the door at 11:25am and walking down the hill to jump in a tuk tuk to take us into town!
Once we got into town, thankfully it was much quieter than our previous day! We did a little shopping and got some lovely leather bound journals to bring home! After having another look around to ensure that we hadn't missed any little shops that might need us to buy something, we decided that it was time to head back to the hotel and get the crap ready for the train again! Since we had time we decided to walk back to the hotel (hoping we remembered the way as there are multiple bridges across the lake that go in many different directions), and made it back in one piece. We grabbed some snacks and drinks for the train and headed back to the hotel to eat some lunch. We sat by the pool and ate and then reorganised bags for the ride. We took tuk tuk's to the train stations with our bags in the back of them hoping that they didn't bounce out on the way. Both us and our bags made it in one piece and it was time to get excited about our last overnight train.
We survived our third and final train ride and arrived back in Delhi at the arse crack of dawn and headed to the hotel to get some breakfast and then wait for them to give us keys to our room. Once we had the key we showered and got ready for another day on the Delhi metro. We had already seen the majority of stuff we wanted when we were in Delhi before the tour started, so it wasn't going to be a rushed, crazy day. We decided that we would just go back into Connaught Place and maybe do a little shopping. We got off the metro and up to street level only to be harassed by just about every person there. "please mam, look in my shop, just look, you no have to buy." "pure silk pashmina, very cheap, good quality."
We both decided it was way too hard, we had very little sleep under our belt and Gordo was getting the beginnings of a cold. Plus to top it off Toot got shat on by a pigeon on her pants and then found it all over her camera also. Happy Poos-day! It was time to jump back on the metro and head back to the hotel, WITHOUT any more purchases. Glad we we're heading back as our patience was wearing thin, while waiting to buy our metro ticket people kept cutting the line in front of us and getting ripped off for the metro ticket which should only cost us 10 rupees each we go charged 40 rupees. Having white skin you basically have a neon sign screaming "please rip me off" apparently. ARGH! Back at the hotel we had a rest and Toot had a little snooze. From here it was time to head out to our last dinner with the group. After dinner the group and our guide all ended up on the rooftop of the hotel with a few beverages and said our goodbyes.
After waking up to repack again (but for the last time) it was time to head to the airport and board the big bird to bring us home. Thankfully it was a relatively uneventful flight well except with limited screaming children. We arrived back in Adelaide this morning looking somewhat weary and feeling much worse.
There were some iffy moments, but many great ones, but we are glad to report that there were no cases of Delhi belly between the two of us. Toot is still looking for her Bollywood talent scout and can still see herself returning to Mumbai at some stage to investigate this career path further.
Love to all and safe travels
This is Toot and Gordo signing off Xx.
P.S. We require more comments and feedbbacks on the blog or there will be no blog next year. haha that's right next years travel plans are already in motion so stay tuned! This will be a dirty 30 year birthday celebration - Toot's in August 2013 and Gordo's in April 2014!
Thursday, 29 November 2012
Monday, 26 November 2012
Shop shop shopping!
Today saw us getting up and out of the hotel by 9am again! From here we took a tuk tuk to the city palace where we did a tour and learned all about the royal family of Udaipur. The royal family no longer have any power except for the money kind. They still live on site but in a small portion of the palace these days. This palace is the second largest in India.
From the palace we walked into the old city and did some looking around and of course some shopping. Toot came across a little silver shop with a lovely man in it and I think we spent close to 45mins choosing pieces to buy. The shop owner warned us that there was about to be a big Muslim festival in the streets and to try and get out of the streets as soon as possible as it would probably get a little crazy. This was all good in theory. Of course all the streets are blocked off and it is impossible for any traffic of any kind to get from one side of the old city to the other and across the lake back to the hotel We eventually found a tuk tuk, the first driver didn't know where we wanted to go even though we showed him on the map, the second driver didn't speak English and the third driver eventually agreed to take us, knew where we were going and got us there through all the tiny little streets you would never dream of trying to get a tuk tuk down. A drive that should have taken 10 mins with all streets open took about 30 mins through back alleys, mega pot holes and a few close calls with walls, cows and other traffic.
We finally made it back to the hotel to change, have a little rest and a drink and then headed out again. It was back to the palace again to grab a boat and go for a cruise around the lake. This was done at sunset and was really quite nice. Having said that we needed to get a tuk tuk back to the palace again. This might seem simple but the tuk tuk driver of course had no idea where he was going, even though he said no worries, and spoke little to no English. Of course road closures got in the way again and he got us as close as he could (going a different way to this morning) and then had trouble telling us that we needed to walk for a further 5 mins. We eventually figured it out with help from a security man on the side of the road.
After the boat ride we went to meet up with the group again and go for dinner. A few other small purchases were made in this time by both Toot and Gordo. Once we met up with the group we were supposed to walk to the restaurant but of course, street closures. This meant another crazy tuk tuk drive but eventually made it to a lovely restaurant on the lakes edge. The scenery was spectacular and the food was alright too.
After this it was time to return to the hotel for sleep tonight. We are finally able to have a proper sleep in tomorrow as we don't have to be out of the hotel til 11:30am. Unfortunately we have our last overnight train ride tomorrow night so it might be a long day. Nothing planned except a little more shopping and acquiring some snacks for said train journey.
Good news, we now have some clean clothes. Gordo was beginning to wonder if she wasn't getting hassled as much anymore coz she smelled a little funny. Good tactic though!
Thats all for now
Toot and Gordo Xx.
From the palace we walked into the old city and did some looking around and of course some shopping. Toot came across a little silver shop with a lovely man in it and I think we spent close to 45mins choosing pieces to buy. The shop owner warned us that there was about to be a big Muslim festival in the streets and to try and get out of the streets as soon as possible as it would probably get a little crazy. This was all good in theory. Of course all the streets are blocked off and it is impossible for any traffic of any kind to get from one side of the old city to the other and across the lake back to the hotel We eventually found a tuk tuk, the first driver didn't know where we wanted to go even though we showed him on the map, the second driver didn't speak English and the third driver eventually agreed to take us, knew where we were going and got us there through all the tiny little streets you would never dream of trying to get a tuk tuk down. A drive that should have taken 10 mins with all streets open took about 30 mins through back alleys, mega pot holes and a few close calls with walls, cows and other traffic.
We finally made it back to the hotel to change, have a little rest and a drink and then headed out again. It was back to the palace again to grab a boat and go for a cruise around the lake. This was done at sunset and was really quite nice. Having said that we needed to get a tuk tuk back to the palace again. This might seem simple but the tuk tuk driver of course had no idea where he was going, even though he said no worries, and spoke little to no English. Of course road closures got in the way again and he got us as close as he could (going a different way to this morning) and then had trouble telling us that we needed to walk for a further 5 mins. We eventually figured it out with help from a security man on the side of the road.
After the boat ride we went to meet up with the group again and go for dinner. A few other small purchases were made in this time by both Toot and Gordo. Once we met up with the group we were supposed to walk to the restaurant but of course, street closures. This meant another crazy tuk tuk drive but eventually made it to a lovely restaurant on the lakes edge. The scenery was spectacular and the food was alright too.
After this it was time to return to the hotel for sleep tonight. We are finally able to have a proper sleep in tomorrow as we don't have to be out of the hotel til 11:30am. Unfortunately we have our last overnight train ride tomorrow night so it might be a long day. Nothing planned except a little more shopping and acquiring some snacks for said train journey.
Good news, we now have some clean clothes. Gordo was beginning to wonder if she wasn't getting hassled as much anymore coz she smelled a little funny. Good tactic though!
Thats all for now
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Sunday, 25 November 2012
Room with a view
Hi All,
This evenings blog is proudly brought to you from our bay window overlooking the city Udaipur and all the fireworks (did we mention it is currently wedding season?). The day started with a warm shower and a lovely breakfast. Then it was time to once again pack the bags and get onto the chariot for another day of crappy roads and no leg space. We had an 8 hour trip today with a few stops along the way for loo breaks, lunch and visiting Ranakpur (a Jain temple).
Ranakpur is built of white marble which is quarried from Makrana (the same quarry to supply the Taj Mahal). At Ranakpur there are no leather goods allowed at all (including purses, shoes, belts etc) and they are strict on this due to the seriousness of the religion. Jainism is based on a doctrine of non violence towards all living beings and are strict vegetarians. The more orthodox ones cover their mouths to avoid inadvertently swallowing living organisms. They also don't wear shoes and brush the ground in front of them as they walk so they don't accidentally kill an insect.
Ranakpur is one of the most spectacular temples that you will see. Set in a secluded wooded valley of the Aravalli Hills, the 15th century temple is one of the 5 great holy places of the Jain faith. It is one of the single most impressive examples of Western Indian architecture.
Once we arrived into Udaipur we checked into our very nice hotel and finally were allocated the presidential suite. We have been waiting since the beginning of the trip and finally have a nice room, with a nice view, a comfy bed and hot water to be confirmed.
Finally we are able to get some washing done as people are starting to look at us funny coz our clothes smell bad and have had no opportunity in the last week to get any washing done. Last pair of clean knickers used today, luckily they have all been washed today and are dry and ready for tomorrow. Everyone breathes a sigh of relief.
After washing was sorted we sat in our bay window and watched the sun set and (we would like to say with a G & T however we are out of T, must get some tomorrow). Then it was time for dinner. We headed to the old city for dinner and will explore that area again further tomorrow. After dinner back to the hotel, write to you fine folks then off to bed.
Love to all
Toot and Gordo Xx.
This evenings blog is proudly brought to you from our bay window overlooking the city Udaipur and all the fireworks (did we mention it is currently wedding season?). The day started with a warm shower and a lovely breakfast. Then it was time to once again pack the bags and get onto the chariot for another day of crappy roads and no leg space. We had an 8 hour trip today with a few stops along the way for loo breaks, lunch and visiting Ranakpur (a Jain temple).
Ranakpur is built of white marble which is quarried from Makrana (the same quarry to supply the Taj Mahal). At Ranakpur there are no leather goods allowed at all (including purses, shoes, belts etc) and they are strict on this due to the seriousness of the religion. Jainism is based on a doctrine of non violence towards all living beings and are strict vegetarians. The more orthodox ones cover their mouths to avoid inadvertently swallowing living organisms. They also don't wear shoes and brush the ground in front of them as they walk so they don't accidentally kill an insect.
Ranakpur is one of the most spectacular temples that you will see. Set in a secluded wooded valley of the Aravalli Hills, the 15th century temple is one of the 5 great holy places of the Jain faith. It is one of the single most impressive examples of Western Indian architecture.
Once we arrived into Udaipur we checked into our very nice hotel and finally were allocated the presidential suite. We have been waiting since the beginning of the trip and finally have a nice room, with a nice view, a comfy bed and hot water to be confirmed.
Finally we are able to get some washing done as people are starting to look at us funny coz our clothes smell bad and have had no opportunity in the last week to get any washing done. Last pair of clean knickers used today, luckily they have all been washed today and are dry and ready for tomorrow. Everyone breathes a sigh of relief.
After washing was sorted we sat in our bay window and watched the sun set and (we would like to say with a G & T however we are out of T, must get some tomorrow). Then it was time for dinner. We headed to the old city for dinner and will explore that area again further tomorrow. After dinner back to the hotel, write to you fine folks then off to bed.
Love to all
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Saturday, 24 November 2012
Friday...Fort Day!
So the hot water situation was indeed sorted out. But of course they have exceptionally small hot water tanks over here for each room. So Toot had a nice warm shower and Gordo had half warm, half cold with an intermission half way through standing in a towel waiting for the hot water to heat up again.
Once showering was all sorted it was off to breakfast for some omelettes on toast with some vegemite (brought from home of course), yum yum. Then time for a short walk through the village to see the palace which had been converted to a hotel. Many of the old palaces here are converted to hotels in order to help with funding the up keep of the palace.
Once our short walk was over it was time to get back into our trusty bus for another day of bumpy roads. Thankfully this bus trip was a short one and we had arrived in Jodphur in time for lunch. We are staying in a home stay for the evening. The host lady is lovely and has welcomed the group into her home where rooms have been converted each with their own ensuite. Once settled it was time for a lovely home cooked meal and a bit of relaxation before heading out and exploring Mehrangarh Fort. The fort sits high up on a cliff and overlooks the city and is described as perhaps the most majestic of Rajasthan's forts. Founded in 1459, the sandstone fort was added to by later rulers, mostly between the mid-17th and mid-19th centuries. The fort has old battle scars along some of the outer walls where it has been hit by cannons in battles. Having said that it is claimed that the fort was never taken in these battles and stood strong. Inside the fort there are all sorts of things to see such as a golden throne, fine miniature paintings, traditional costumes and fascinating weapons.
After we took on the fort it was time for some more markets. This time a few small purchases were made and many a cow and tuk tuk avoided while doing so. After market exploring it was time for another amazing meal and then back to our room for the evening. At least we have a slightly later morning tomorrow being able to sleep in til 7:30am. Yay, here's to hoping there is warm water for two! A long drive is ahead of us tomorrow approx. 8 hours as we head to Udaipur.
Til then, stay safe and enjoy
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Once showering was all sorted it was off to breakfast for some omelettes on toast with some vegemite (brought from home of course), yum yum. Then time for a short walk through the village to see the palace which had been converted to a hotel. Many of the old palaces here are converted to hotels in order to help with funding the up keep of the palace.
Once our short walk was over it was time to get back into our trusty bus for another day of bumpy roads. Thankfully this bus trip was a short one and we had arrived in Jodphur in time for lunch. We are staying in a home stay for the evening. The host lady is lovely and has welcomed the group into her home where rooms have been converted each with their own ensuite. Once settled it was time for a lovely home cooked meal and a bit of relaxation before heading out and exploring Mehrangarh Fort. The fort sits high up on a cliff and overlooks the city and is described as perhaps the most majestic of Rajasthan's forts. Founded in 1459, the sandstone fort was added to by later rulers, mostly between the mid-17th and mid-19th centuries. The fort has old battle scars along some of the outer walls where it has been hit by cannons in battles. Having said that it is claimed that the fort was never taken in these battles and stood strong. Inside the fort there are all sorts of things to see such as a golden throne, fine miniature paintings, traditional costumes and fascinating weapons.
After we took on the fort it was time for some more markets. This time a few small purchases were made and many a cow and tuk tuk avoided while doing so. After market exploring it was time for another amazing meal and then back to our room for the evening. At least we have a slightly later morning tomorrow being able to sleep in til 7:30am. Yay, here's to hoping there is warm water for two! A long drive is ahead of us tomorrow approx. 8 hours as we head to Udaipur.
Til then, stay safe and enjoy
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Friday, 23 November 2012
Out of touch in Tordi....
Hi All,
I know it has been a while since we spoke last, we have been
out in the back and beyond and had no internet.
So sorry for the lack of blogs over the last couple of days.
Since we talked we took the chicken bus (which thankfully had
no chickens or livestock) from Agra to Jaipur.
The bus trip was fine except for one of the locals who was sitting
across the aisle from us and listened to music on his phone without earphones
and sang along to it. Thankfully he
didn’t do this the whole trip but did for a significant portion. We are now down with Indian Pop music!
We arrived into Jaipur just after lunch and got settled into
our hotel. The hotel was an old palace
which had been converted to a hotel so there was no order as to where the room
numbers went and you had to take various flights of stairs up, then down, then
up etc etc. We finally arrived at our
room (which was on the roof) and found that there was no fly screens on the
window in the bathroom or above the door to the room which allowed copious
amounts of mozzies to enter the room. I think we ended up with “Rid” more in our
mouths than on our skin and the mozzie bite count between us after our two
nights there is in the tens at least.
Once settled we went for a walk with the group to get our
bearings of the city, had a late lunch and off to the markets for some
shopping. After shopping we returned to the hotel to head out for dinner with
the group. For dinner we went to the
hotel that is used for a scene in the movie “The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel.”
It is the hotel used in the scene where the lady is at the bar trying to pick
up wealthy Indian men. We had dinner on the lawn outside with some
entertainment of dancing, music and some fire breathing! Toot got up on stage
with a few of the others and had a little boogie and her 15 mins of fame (I
think that she was secretly hoping there was a Bollywood talent scout in the
crowd). Once dinner was over it was time for a tuk tuk back to the hotel and a
little party on the roof. Drinks were
flowing, music was playing and we had a view of the city from the roof. It was a nice evening weather wise but we had
an early morning the next morning so we crashed at about 11:30pm. By the sounds of the music still going and
people still talking we think the roof party eventually died at about 4:30am.
The next morning we headed off to the Amber Fort. The fort palace of Amber was the Kachawaha
citadel until 1727, when their capital moved to Jaipur. Successive rulers
continued to come here on important occasions to seek the blessings of the
family deity, Shila Devi. After the fort
we headed off to look at a textile and a silver shops. No purchases were made for which the credit
cards are happy. After this it was time
for more market browsing and then off to the supermarket for some snacks. Once the all important snack shopping was
taken care of it was time for a Bollywood flick at the local cinema. The new “blockbuster” has just hit town and I
believe we were lucky to get seats. It was call “Jab Tak Hai Jaan” We saw
the movie at the Raj Mandir Cinema this was Director Yash Chopra who was one of
the most famous directors in India. He unfortunately
died of Dengue Fever late last month just after announcing his retirement of
film directing.
It’s not quite what we expected with most of the older more
traditional Bollywood movies having no kissing or anything of the kind. This movie however had many kisses and a bed
scene, most unexpected. No subtitles, all in Hindi with a random English word
thrown in here and there for good measure.
The actual viewing of the movie is quite hilarious. When the movie starts everyone on the cinema
goes nuts, there is wolf whistling, cheering and clapping for the first few
minutes. Throughout the movie people are cheering, getting up and down from
their seats and we were also lucky enough to see a small brawl break out in the
crowd and a few get evicted. There is an
intermission half way through as the movie goes for 3 hours (a fairly standard
length for Bollywood by the sounds of it).
Loved the movie, Toot thinks it needed more singing and dancing, she is
now hanging out to get home and download a few for herself. Any recommendations gratefully received.
This morning was time to leave Jaipur on our own buses and
travel the crappy road to Tordi Garh.
The bus ride was 4 hours of one lane “highway” (with pot holes big
enough to just about lose the bus down), rolled over trucks on the side of the
road and plenty of livestock just chilling. When we finally arrived in Tordi Garh
we were pleased with our hotel (an old converted 17th century
palace). Once settled it was time for a walk around the village which consists
of 2500 people. The family that own and run the palace also run the local
school. They also do a lot for the local
community by providing jobs, organising people from the village to come in and
do henna, sell sarees and take the tourist on a camel cart ride to the nearby
sand dunes to watch the sunset. Upon returning from the camel cart ride it was
time for dinner and fireworks (a little too close for comfort, but fun
nonetheless) and then time for bed. You know you’re getting old when the party
is cranking (rather loudly) just outside the door and pj’s and bed is more
enticing.
Wherever our room seems to be, there is always a loud even
just next door. We had Diwali
celebrations outside the window in Delhi, a performance on the lawn with
fireworks in Varanasi, the disco in our hotel in Agra was 2 doors down, rooftop
party in Jaipur and loud music and drinking just outside here in Tordi Garh.
On the road again from Tordi and this time it is off to
another village for one night. On
arrival we were greeted on the lawn outside the hotel by some local ladies
singing a welcome song. We settled into our rooms and headed to lunch. Some very tasty local food was had and a
massage organised for later in the afternoon.
After lunch we had a free afternoon to read in the sun with some
relatively fresh air around us. After
some reading we had a massage in our room by some of the local ladies. We had coconut oil rubbed all over us and all
through our hair. This was all great
until it was time to have a shower after and there was no hot water, eww cold
shower and oily hair. Once “showered” we
headed to some rooftop drinks before dinner and they had a fire going (I
believe to keep the mozzies at bay) so no everything smells like smoke. We headed to dinner after drinks and then
headed to bed, both knackered again. At
least by this time we had managed to get the hot water issue sorted out for the
morning.
Think that catches us up for now. We will post again tonight telling you about
what we get up to this afternoon.
Love to all, ciao for now
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Monday, 19 November 2012
Taj Mahal and all its glory!
So we left you last time floating somewhere down the Ganges. You will be pleased to know that since then we have survived another boat ride and another overnight train as well as two more tuk tuk rides! We also ventured back into the labyrinth that is Varanasi and made it out and back to the hotel all by ourselves.
We have also had the chance to visit the Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal. WOW! They are both quite big and the Taj Mahal certainly doesn't disappoint. Its all you can imagine from photos and more. Having said that the outside is far more beautiful than the inside of the Taj Mahal. There of course will be photos for you all to see upon our return.
To get inside the gates of the Taj Mahal of course you need a ticket. We are considered high value ticket holders and the locals are just ticket holders. There are 3 queues at the gate, high value ladies, high value gentlemen and Indians. You go through a metal detector and then your bags get x-rayed. You aren't allowed to take in any food and they give you a bottle of water so that they know exactly what is coming in and out of the area.
Once you get inside the gate there are again separate queues for westerners and Indians to get inside the Taj itself. The queue for the westerners is small and moves quite well. The queue for the Indians just about goes around the entire compound and there is a high chance that they may queue for the entire day and still not get inside, making them return to pay yet again and go through the entire process maybe multiple times over before they actually get to see inside.
From there we returned with the group to the hotel to get ready to head to dinner. We've had another 4 people join our group 3 from Australia and 1 from California (an older lady) and already becoming well known in our group for running late and getting stroppy. There always happens to be one in every group. Again we will have to get back to you once we have scoped them out. Of course another delicious meal with Gordo again at the end almost needing to be rolled back to the bus. This time we had some Daal Tadka (yellow lentil curry) and Paneer butter masala (which we have had previously). Very tasty meal again.
This morning was another early wake up call at 5:45am as we head off to Jaipur on a local bus. Wish us luck! We'll get back to you later on with a chicken count no doubt. All we've heard the bus has no a/c so this should be interesting.
Until then hope your having a great day and enjoying our blog.
Toot & Gordo xox
We have also had the chance to visit the Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal. WOW! They are both quite big and the Taj Mahal certainly doesn't disappoint. Its all you can imagine from photos and more. Having said that the outside is far more beautiful than the inside of the Taj Mahal. There of course will be photos for you all to see upon our return.
To get inside the gates of the Taj Mahal of course you need a ticket. We are considered high value ticket holders and the locals are just ticket holders. There are 3 queues at the gate, high value ladies, high value gentlemen and Indians. You go through a metal detector and then your bags get x-rayed. You aren't allowed to take in any food and they give you a bottle of water so that they know exactly what is coming in and out of the area.
Once you get inside the gate there are again separate queues for westerners and Indians to get inside the Taj itself. The queue for the westerners is small and moves quite well. The queue for the Indians just about goes around the entire compound and there is a high chance that they may queue for the entire day and still not get inside, making them return to pay yet again and go through the entire process maybe multiple times over before they actually get to see inside.
From there we returned with the group to the hotel to get ready to head to dinner. We've had another 4 people join our group 3 from Australia and 1 from California (an older lady) and already becoming well known in our group for running late and getting stroppy. There always happens to be one in every group. Again we will have to get back to you once we have scoped them out. Of course another delicious meal with Gordo again at the end almost needing to be rolled back to the bus. This time we had some Daal Tadka (yellow lentil curry) and Paneer butter masala (which we have had previously). Very tasty meal again.
This morning was another early wake up call at 5:45am as we head off to Jaipur on a local bus. Wish us luck! We'll get back to you later on with a chicken count no doubt. All we've heard the bus has no a/c so this should be interesting.
Until then hope your having a great day and enjoying our blog.
Toot & Gordo xox
Saturday, 17 November 2012
Floating down The Ganges without a paddle! Close enough to shit creek...
Another 5 people have joined our group but we are yet to make the rounds properly. So far we have managed to chat to two of them. We will return with details soon, watch this space...
Our hotel in Varanasi is more like a compound away from the centre of town. We are more than walking distance out so it has been easier to eat at the restaurant in the hotel The food is yet to disappoint except for the breakfasts. Eggs Benedict and baked beans on toast have not been the greatest. Tomorrow morning shall be Indian for sure! Lunch and dinner over the last 24 hours has been amazing to say the least, cheap also. Last nights meal consisted of Paneer butter masala (butter chicken with cottage cheese instead of chicken), Daal (lentils in tasty sauce), 2 x garlic naan and rice. All of this plus 4 drinks for the equivalent of AU$12. And we were stuffed afterwards to the point that Toot almost had to roll Gordo back to the room. Today's lunch was excellent again. We had Aloo Dum Banarasi (a Varansi special which is potatoes stuffed with paneer and covered in a mild brown Indian sauce).
Enough with the food and now onto Varanasi itself and what it is famous for, The Ganges. This morning we had an early start. This meant meeting the group at 5:30am for a boat road on the Ganges. Even at that time of the morning it is filled with people bathing to wash away their sins, drinking, washing clothes and plenty of tourist on boats. We saw a hazy, smoggy sunrise along the vacant banks to east, and the hustle and bustle of what is Varanasi on the Western bank. Our boat ride took us past locals preparing bodies for cremation. Varanasi is India's holiest Hindu city and where people come to die. The reason being that one of the top 3 gods that Hindu's pray to is based around Varanasi. Bodies are prepared in a special way and this is the same except for 5 types of people.
1. Children under the age of ten (it is considered they have not sinned yet)
2. Holy men
3. Pregnant women (as they are carrying life inside)
4. People with leprosy
5. People bitten by snakes (they are thought to be blessed as Shiva, the god in Varanasi is pictured with a snake)
All people except the above are wrapped in white cotton, tied to bamboo ladders then orange or pink silk is laid on this, they are then bathed in the Ganges, then decorated with perfume and garlands, they are then ready fro cremation. Once cremated the family waits for 13 days then a chosen family member (usually the first born son) then scatters the ashes into the Ganges. The above mentioned people however are weighted down and thrown into the Ganges without cremation.
After all this excitement we took on the labyrinth of the alleys of Varanasi. In this time we saw not one but two dead bodies pass us and Toot stepped in not two but one pile of sacred cow shit, she is unsure whether to clean her shoe or not. On the evening boat ride, which you will hear about in a minute, Gordo tried to outdo Toot and accidentally managed to dunk half her hand in the lovely brown water of the Ganges. Yuck! Needless to say copious amounts of sanitiser was placed on said hand and she shall now be ever known as Ganges Gordo. Watch this space for Gordos third to appear for holy water.
After our morning boat road we returned to the hotel and ate the disaster beans on toast and Gordo had a chocolate pancake, yummo! After breakfast it was time to shower then head to a silk weaving community. We saw manual vs machine weaving and had the opportunity to purchase any silk items we may have required. You will be pleased to know that no purchases were made today!
Once finished at the silk community we returned to the hotel to eat once again. Today was the tasty dish of Aloo Dum Banarasi mentioned above. After lunch it was time for a little rest and a trip down the road to the shop for some drinks and snacks. We then headed back to the banks of the Ganges for an evening boat road to see sunset rituals and more burning of the bodies at the cremation ghat.
That just about sums up our day with no dinner tonight (too full from lunch still).
Cheers for now
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Our hotel in Varanasi is more like a compound away from the centre of town. We are more than walking distance out so it has been easier to eat at the restaurant in the hotel The food is yet to disappoint except for the breakfasts. Eggs Benedict and baked beans on toast have not been the greatest. Tomorrow morning shall be Indian for sure! Lunch and dinner over the last 24 hours has been amazing to say the least, cheap also. Last nights meal consisted of Paneer butter masala (butter chicken with cottage cheese instead of chicken), Daal (lentils in tasty sauce), 2 x garlic naan and rice. All of this plus 4 drinks for the equivalent of AU$12. And we were stuffed afterwards to the point that Toot almost had to roll Gordo back to the room. Today's lunch was excellent again. We had Aloo Dum Banarasi (a Varansi special which is potatoes stuffed with paneer and covered in a mild brown Indian sauce).
Enough with the food and now onto Varanasi itself and what it is famous for, The Ganges. This morning we had an early start. This meant meeting the group at 5:30am for a boat road on the Ganges. Even at that time of the morning it is filled with people bathing to wash away their sins, drinking, washing clothes and plenty of tourist on boats. We saw a hazy, smoggy sunrise along the vacant banks to east, and the hustle and bustle of what is Varanasi on the Western bank. Our boat ride took us past locals preparing bodies for cremation. Varanasi is India's holiest Hindu city and where people come to die. The reason being that one of the top 3 gods that Hindu's pray to is based around Varanasi. Bodies are prepared in a special way and this is the same except for 5 types of people.
1. Children under the age of ten (it is considered they have not sinned yet)
2. Holy men
3. Pregnant women (as they are carrying life inside)
4. People with leprosy
5. People bitten by snakes (they are thought to be blessed as Shiva, the god in Varanasi is pictured with a snake)
All people except the above are wrapped in white cotton, tied to bamboo ladders then orange or pink silk is laid on this, they are then bathed in the Ganges, then decorated with perfume and garlands, they are then ready fro cremation. Once cremated the family waits for 13 days then a chosen family member (usually the first born son) then scatters the ashes into the Ganges. The above mentioned people however are weighted down and thrown into the Ganges without cremation.
After all this excitement we took on the labyrinth of the alleys of Varanasi. In this time we saw not one but two dead bodies pass us and Toot stepped in not two but one pile of sacred cow shit, she is unsure whether to clean her shoe or not. On the evening boat ride, which you will hear about in a minute, Gordo tried to outdo Toot and accidentally managed to dunk half her hand in the lovely brown water of the Ganges. Yuck! Needless to say copious amounts of sanitiser was placed on said hand and she shall now be ever known as Ganges Gordo. Watch this space for Gordos third to appear for holy water.
After our morning boat road we returned to the hotel and ate the disaster beans on toast and Gordo had a chocolate pancake, yummo! After breakfast it was time to shower then head to a silk weaving community. We saw manual vs machine weaving and had the opportunity to purchase any silk items we may have required. You will be pleased to know that no purchases were made today!
Once finished at the silk community we returned to the hotel to eat once again. Today was the tasty dish of Aloo Dum Banarasi mentioned above. After lunch it was time for a little rest and a trip down the road to the shop for some drinks and snacks. We then headed back to the banks of the Ganges for an evening boat road to see sunset rituals and more burning of the bodies at the cremation ghat.
That just about sums up our day with no dinner tonight (too full from lunch still).
Cheers for now
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Thursday, 15 November 2012
Indian Express!
We did it! We survived our first night on Indian rail. With the train running on time and everything. With six out of our 7 group members all being in the same berth it made sleeping a little easier. Even though it it just as easy for some random to come in and grab whatever they like (thank god for luggage locks and cables)! Well in theory...however Toot "locked hers" but forgot to actually spin the numbers to actually lock the cable. D'oh!!! On previous trips with trains we have had a solid lockable door between us and the outside world, this time just a curtain. With 3 tier bedding but at least air-conditioned the night wasn't too bad. We were right at the end of the carriage so everyone who wanted to go to the toilet during the night walked straight passed our area which wasn't a problem in itself unless Gordo wanted to sleep with her legs stretched out. Being on the middle tier Gordos feet were just at the height of people heads coming through the door which meant every time the door opened the person would either get kicked in the head or the toes on Gordos feet had limited time left after meeting the door several times.
Toot woke up to find someone trying to "borrow" her blanket and once he realised she was awake quickly folded it back up and placed it back on her feet. Cheeky bugger!
We arrived into Varanasi this morning with all our belongings and a little sleep under our belt and headed to the hotel. We had breakfast as our rooms were not yet ready and sat and chatted for a little while. Then it was off to our rooms and time for a shower and some washing of clothes. The room now looks like a Chinese laundry.
We've just realised we haven't introduced you to our current group members (who will be with us for the whole 16 days - we have another 6 joining us tonight who started their tour in Nepal and I think we get another 4 in Agra?? - Gecko's for you all about "modules" for their tours!). Anyway getting back to our current group which consists of a total of 7 people including us - all Aussies except 1 American.
We have Chris & Danielle from Sydney a married couple in their mid-thirties seem very well travelled and nice enough. Chris currently has lens envy of Toots camera lens. We might need to frisk him at the end of the tour in case it accidentally fell into their teeny tiny luggage (that's another story right there).
We then have two young girls from Perth Holly & Chloe we reckon they must be in their early twenties. Any AFL followers out there apparently Chloe's brother Jack Darling plays for the West Coast Eagles? I have no idea about AFL any more so I'm just taking her word for it. Again seem like nice girls but are "young" shall we say.
And finally we have Yvonne from New York City - I'm really unsure of her age?! She's also lovely but very reserved. I guess as these next couple of weeks pass we'll know a bit more about each person and who annoys us etc. hahaha.
Also sorry our guide is names Prabhav - he's from Jaipur. It's taking some time on how to pronounce is name properly but we're getting there slowly. Again we keep comparing him to our fab first tour leader Tom from Vietnam. No one has topped him yet he was just awesome. Oh well we will keep you up to date with his progress and our final thoughts in the end.
Once this was all done we met up with the group and went to Sarnath (where Buddha gave his first major sermon after gaining enlightenment). This place is as holy to Buddhists as Varanasi is to Hindu's. There are ruins of monasteries and temples and an archaeological museum to show some of the relics found during excavations. We weren't allowed to take cameras or bags into the museum. Having said that some of these preserved items are on display with no cabinet and free for pigeons to shit on and people to touch. We don't see the sense in all of this, but we are just mere white folk.
After we returned from this is was time to return to the room have a little rest and a G & T and we are about to go and meet up with the group for dinner. More to follow tomorrow!
Ciao for now
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Toot woke up to find someone trying to "borrow" her blanket and once he realised she was awake quickly folded it back up and placed it back on her feet. Cheeky bugger!
We arrived into Varanasi this morning with all our belongings and a little sleep under our belt and headed to the hotel. We had breakfast as our rooms were not yet ready and sat and chatted for a little while. Then it was off to our rooms and time for a shower and some washing of clothes. The room now looks like a Chinese laundry.
We've just realised we haven't introduced you to our current group members (who will be with us for the whole 16 days - we have another 6 joining us tonight who started their tour in Nepal and I think we get another 4 in Agra?? - Gecko's for you all about "modules" for their tours!). Anyway getting back to our current group which consists of a total of 7 people including us - all Aussies except 1 American.
We have Chris & Danielle from Sydney a married couple in their mid-thirties seem very well travelled and nice enough. Chris currently has lens envy of Toots camera lens. We might need to frisk him at the end of the tour in case it accidentally fell into their teeny tiny luggage (that's another story right there).
We then have two young girls from Perth Holly & Chloe we reckon they must be in their early twenties. Any AFL followers out there apparently Chloe's brother Jack Darling plays for the West Coast Eagles? I have no idea about AFL any more so I'm just taking her word for it. Again seem like nice girls but are "young" shall we say.
And finally we have Yvonne from New York City - I'm really unsure of her age?! She's also lovely but very reserved. I guess as these next couple of weeks pass we'll know a bit more about each person and who annoys us etc. hahaha.
Also sorry our guide is names Prabhav - he's from Jaipur. It's taking some time on how to pronounce is name properly but we're getting there slowly. Again we keep comparing him to our fab first tour leader Tom from Vietnam. No one has topped him yet he was just awesome. Oh well we will keep you up to date with his progress and our final thoughts in the end.
Once this was all done we met up with the group and went to Sarnath (where Buddha gave his first major sermon after gaining enlightenment). This place is as holy to Buddhists as Varanasi is to Hindu's. There are ruins of monasteries and temples and an archaeological museum to show some of the relics found during excavations. We weren't allowed to take cameras or bags into the museum. Having said that some of these preserved items are on display with no cabinet and free for pigeons to shit on and people to touch. We don't see the sense in all of this, but we are just mere white folk.
After we returned from this is was time to return to the room have a little rest and a G & T and we are about to go and meet up with the group for dinner. More to follow tomorrow!
Ciao for now
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Wednesday, 14 November 2012
A day on the Delhi Metro
After the street just about being blown up lastnight by
every sort of firecracker imaginable, the noise finally died down at about 2am
this morning. Even with earplugs in the
noise was incredible. Once the
firecrackers stopped we managed to get a little sleep in between then and
around 7am. We didn’t have to meet with
the group until 11am. So we slowly started to get up, and pack up and organise
our stuff for the overnight train ride this evening.
Once we were packed and downstairs to meet up with the
group, we were off to the local metro station to learn all about the Delhi
metro. We rode this into the city centre
and went for a small walk and tried a very sweet and sickly but lovely local
dessert from a shop that has been around since 1885 and still run by the same
family. I am not sure what exactly it
was but it was sweet, deep fried goodness.
After this is was back on the train to Connaught Place to have a look
around, change some money and grab some lunch as well as something for snacks
or dinner on the train tonight. We
finally had our first Indian meal in India. It was nothing fancy just some garlic naan, Palak
Paneer (spinach with cottage cheese) and some Daal.
After lunch we went for another look around Connaught Place
and then we decided to head back to the hotel to get our gear ready for the
train. Once again it was back to the metro station (this time without the help
of our guide who had left earlier and already returned to the hotel). We did very well, only 10 Rupees per person (approx.
18c) and much faster than the tuk tuk from yesterday. We even got on the right train going in the
right direction and got off at the correct stop. This travel thing and language barrier is no
worries, haha!
Next time you hear from us we will have had our first
overnight train ride and hopefully come out the other side relatively
unscathed.
Much love
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Tuk Tuk Tuesday
Well today saw us venture out of our comfort zone in regards to local transport. We bit the bullet and cruised and around in a tuk tuk to various shopping places. After a small adventure out in a tuk tuk this morning we returned to near the hotel to start our next adventure. It was all part of the experience we kept saying to ourselves. This was started after a conversation with and Indian man called "Bill." He drove us in his tuk tuk and took us to various silver shops, and places that sold scarves and local handicrafts. Toot has made a few lovely purchases including a scarfe and some earrings and a nice ring. And I fear there will be many more to come. Oh no.
After several hours out with Bill we returned to the hotel to have a rest before our group meeting this evening. With the streets fairly quiet this afternoon with all the locals at home for the Diwali festival, things have certainly picked up this evening. Following the group meeting we all went on a walk to find some dinner with no luck. Most people are at home with their families celebrating the festival. The rest of the locals are out blowing up anything in sight as long as it makes a loud noise and pretty sparks. It sounds as though we are writing this from the main street in Baghdad. Due to nothing being open, we were forced to have KFC for dinner tonight. Only chips since we're on a strict vego diet while here!!
I feel this is going to be a somewhat sleepless night due to the blowing up of stuff outside our window. Not sure the ear plugs are going to even touch the sides of the noise going on out there. We must never complain about the street noise on Denmead ever again - NEVER!
And with that we bid you farewell this evening. Our next post will be coming to you from the middle of the Ganges, well maybe just the edge.
Ciao for now, dont forget the comments so that we know you really do miss us!
Toot & Gordo Xx.
After several hours out with Bill we returned to the hotel to have a rest before our group meeting this evening. With the streets fairly quiet this afternoon with all the locals at home for the Diwali festival, things have certainly picked up this evening. Following the group meeting we all went on a walk to find some dinner with no luck. Most people are at home with their families celebrating the festival. The rest of the locals are out blowing up anything in sight as long as it makes a loud noise and pretty sparks. It sounds as though we are writing this from the main street in Baghdad. Due to nothing being open, we were forced to have KFC for dinner tonight. Only chips since we're on a strict vego diet while here!!
I feel this is going to be a somewhat sleepless night due to the blowing up of stuff outside our window. Not sure the ear plugs are going to even touch the sides of the noise going on out there. We must never complain about the street noise on Denmead ever again - NEVER!
And with that we bid you farewell this evening. Our next post will be coming to you from the middle of the Ganges, well maybe just the edge.
Ciao for now, dont forget the comments so that we know you really do miss us!
Toot & Gordo Xx.
Monday, 12 November 2012
Welcome from the city of fire crackers!
So we finally arrived into Delhi last night, the city of some 20 million people. We arrived in late into our hotel, "Hotel Perfect! We believe that most of those 20 million people are driving and honking their horns just outside our hotel window, if they aren't honking, the local stray dogs are arguing or Bindi (Bernice the pigeons Indian cousin) is having a whinge on our window sill.
Streets are packed, the traffic is crazy, and the smells, lets just say, you are all very lucky this isnt a scratch 'n' sniff blog! The air is quite hazey and smoggy and this is not the norm and is partially due to the weather change at the moment.
The weather has been rather pleasant, overcast and high twenties today and cools down fairly fast once the sun disappears.
After a somewhat broken sleep due to noise we finally got up this morning around 8:30am expecting our city tour driver to collect us at 10am. While Toot was midway through shampooing her hair around 9am Gordo answers a phone call from reception to say our driver has turned up. Mad panic by Gordo to find paperwork to go show the driver that it was indeed booked for 10am. After a few words muttered between Gordo and driver they agreed to wait for us til the agreed time, which enabled Toot to continue shampooing and also lucky enough to condition, and lucky for everyone, Gordo also got to shower.
Once we finally got under way with our city tour with our lovely older tour guide Anand, we drove past the Red Fort, went inside Humayum's Tomb, Jama Masjid (the countrys largest muslim mosque) and drove past Parliament House, India Gate, the Presidents Palace. We also walked down the street selling all the firecrackers for the Diwali Festival. The street is packed with everyone selling all sorts of lights and firecrackers to set off over the next few days.
As we returned to the hotel at 2pm it became apparent that food was needed as the only thing that had been consumed up until this point since leaving Adelaide, was aeroplane food and some onion rings in Kuala Lumpur airport. At least there was a funsize toblerone each (left from the plane) and a can of coke picked up at the airport last night.
I would also like to mention that back in Adelaide nobody wants to have their photo taken with me. I shall consider charging the locals here for every photo with the token white chick at tourist attractions. We are treated like rock stars with our pale skin. Everyone wants it, except us of course. There are bill boards all over the place with advertisements for skin lightning cream, we all want what we cant have.
Still a little cautious of places to eat, so played it safe tonight with some chips from Macca's and some pringles for a little later (please dont tell Brett the personal trainer). So even though they all want photos taken with us, Gordo must look dodgy as she got a metal detector run over her by security upon entering Maccas.
Even in Delhi with its 20 million people + tourists, we are walking down a back alley this afternoon and who do we see riding in a tuk tuk, Carries client. It must be an Adelaide thing!
You will probably get a grumpy blog from us tomorrow after little sleep due to firecrackers outside Hotel Perfect. I promise you that is actually its name.
Cheers for now
Toot and Gordo Xx.
PS Toot found us tonic water to have with bottle of duty free gin to consume while here.I knew I kept her around for something. No Gordons, so we have to settle for Bombay (sorry Carole)!
PPS Len, there is signage for the Delhi Daredevils everywhere! With an India vs Pakistan game due next month they are expecting a 50, 000 + strong crowd! Wish you were here now?
Streets are packed, the traffic is crazy, and the smells, lets just say, you are all very lucky this isnt a scratch 'n' sniff blog! The air is quite hazey and smoggy and this is not the norm and is partially due to the weather change at the moment.
The weather has been rather pleasant, overcast and high twenties today and cools down fairly fast once the sun disappears.
After a somewhat broken sleep due to noise we finally got up this morning around 8:30am expecting our city tour driver to collect us at 10am. While Toot was midway through shampooing her hair around 9am Gordo answers a phone call from reception to say our driver has turned up. Mad panic by Gordo to find paperwork to go show the driver that it was indeed booked for 10am. After a few words muttered between Gordo and driver they agreed to wait for us til the agreed time, which enabled Toot to continue shampooing and also lucky enough to condition, and lucky for everyone, Gordo also got to shower.
Once we finally got under way with our city tour with our lovely older tour guide Anand, we drove past the Red Fort, went inside Humayum's Tomb, Jama Masjid (the countrys largest muslim mosque) and drove past Parliament House, India Gate, the Presidents Palace. We also walked down the street selling all the firecrackers for the Diwali Festival. The street is packed with everyone selling all sorts of lights and firecrackers to set off over the next few days.
As we returned to the hotel at 2pm it became apparent that food was needed as the only thing that had been consumed up until this point since leaving Adelaide, was aeroplane food and some onion rings in Kuala Lumpur airport. At least there was a funsize toblerone each (left from the plane) and a can of coke picked up at the airport last night.
I would also like to mention that back in Adelaide nobody wants to have their photo taken with me. I shall consider charging the locals here for every photo with the token white chick at tourist attractions. We are treated like rock stars with our pale skin. Everyone wants it, except us of course. There are bill boards all over the place with advertisements for skin lightning cream, we all want what we cant have.
Still a little cautious of places to eat, so played it safe tonight with some chips from Macca's and some pringles for a little later (please dont tell Brett the personal trainer). So even though they all want photos taken with us, Gordo must look dodgy as she got a metal detector run over her by security upon entering Maccas.
Even in Delhi with its 20 million people + tourists, we are walking down a back alley this afternoon and who do we see riding in a tuk tuk, Carries client. It must be an Adelaide thing!
You will probably get a grumpy blog from us tomorrow after little sleep due to firecrackers outside Hotel Perfect. I promise you that is actually its name.
Cheers for now
Toot and Gordo Xx.
PS Toot found us tonic water to have with bottle of duty free gin to consume while here.I knew I kept her around for something. No Gordons, so we have to settle for Bombay (sorry Carole)!
PPS Len, there is signage for the Delhi Daredevils everywhere! With an India vs Pakistan game due next month they are expecting a 50, 000 + strong crowd! Wish you were here now?
Sunday, 11 November 2012
T Minus 20 mins and counting
Hi All,
Well this is it! We are waiting to jump on our big aeroplane after a rather lengthy wait in line to check in. No major dramas as yet, the toilet at home was still working, the fridge still running and the house clean. Sorry about the washing pile Jnr!
We got our exit row seats as promised (thanks Skye) but no upgrade to business class even though we look classy, HOW RUDE!
Love to all
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Well this is it! We are waiting to jump on our big aeroplane after a rather lengthy wait in line to check in. No major dramas as yet, the toilet at home was still working, the fridge still running and the house clean. Sorry about the washing pile Jnr!
We got our exit row seats as promised (thanks Skye) but no upgrade to business class even though we look classy, HOW RUDE!
Love to all
Toot and Gordo Xx.
Sunday, 28 October 2012
2 Weeks and Counting Down...
So we are a little closer but not much more organised! The pile upstairs is growing and paperwork is starting to go into travel wallets.
Music and books are being uploaded onto devices so that we have something to keep us entertained on flights and very long train rides.
Toot has been shopping for new pants, again, but essentials such as travel locks are yet to be organised by Gordo.
New additions to the travel accessories this year include cool little bags for the squishy bean pillows, proudly brought to us by Mumma Gordo, thanks Caz!
We are starting to get the house into a livable manner for our annual house sitter Jnr to arrive (Jnr are you available for September 2013 also?).
Our last food shop before departure has occurred and now we are to clean out the fridge and freezer to survive the next 2 weeks. This could make for some interesting meals.
Any tips from readers who have been to the region will gratefully received.
Cheers Toot and Gordo Xx.
Music and books are being uploaded onto devices so that we have something to keep us entertained on flights and very long train rides.
Toot has been shopping for new pants, again, but essentials such as travel locks are yet to be organised by Gordo.
New additions to the travel accessories this year include cool little bags for the squishy bean pillows, proudly brought to us by Mumma Gordo, thanks Caz!
We are starting to get the house into a livable manner for our annual house sitter Jnr to arrive (Jnr are you available for September 2013 also?).
Our last food shop before departure has occurred and now we are to clean out the fridge and freezer to survive the next 2 weeks. This could make for some interesting meals.
Any tips from readers who have been to the region will gratefully received.
Cheers Toot and Gordo Xx.
Sunday, 21 October 2012
Welcome Aboard
Hi All,
Welcome to the new addition of Toot and Gordo's travel adventures! We are off on our Indian adventure 3 weeks from today! We are slowly starting to assemble a communal pile of crap upstairs to take with us on our adventure.
Here's hoping there are no last minute plumbing issues or fridge scares as with the 2011 adventure.
For those of you who would like to see what we will be up to, you can find details before we go at
http://www.geckosadventures.com/india/india/north-india-highlights-2011/trip-notes
Stay tuned for further updates!
Speak soon
Toot and Gordo
Welcome to the new addition of Toot and Gordo's travel adventures! We are off on our Indian adventure 3 weeks from today! We are slowly starting to assemble a communal pile of crap upstairs to take with us on our adventure.
Here's hoping there are no last minute plumbing issues or fridge scares as with the 2011 adventure.
For those of you who would like to see what we will be up to, you can find details before we go at
http://www.geckosadventures.com/india/india/north-india-highlights-2011/trip-notes
Stay tuned for further updates!
Speak soon
Toot and Gordo
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